Sky Dragon Expeditions

Trekking journey · The high Himalaya

Under Jomolhari

Eleven days, seven of them walking, to the base of a 7,326-metre mountain that has been closed to climbers for a generation — and back over the Nyile La and Yeli La.

Duration11 days, 10 nights7 walking days
RouteParo · Jangothang · Lingshi · ThimphuPoint to point
WalkingStrenuous5–8 hours a day, two high passes
Altitude2,235 – 4,890 mTrek section 2,500–4,890 m; high point Yeli La
GroupPrivate departureFrom two travellers, seasonal
Overview

About this journey

Jangothang is the finest campsite in Bhutan and one of the finest in the Himalaya: a meadow at 4,080 metres with the north face of Jomolhari filling the sky at the head of the valley. Getting there takes three days on foot; the return crosses two passes near 4,900 metres.

The itinerary below is what we would run as written. Every day of it is adjustable — add a night, drop a drive, change a valley. Read when to travel if you are still choosing dates, and entry and fees for what a quotation covers.

Who this suits

Experienced hill walkers with recent multi-day experience at altitude. Seven consecutive walking days, four nights above 4,000 metres, and two passes near 4,900 metres. This is the most demanding journey we run as a standard itinerary.

Enquire about this journey

Private departure, any date. We reply with a written itinerary and a full quotation.

Duration11 days · 10 nights
StyleTrekking
RegionParo · Jangothang · Lingshi
WalkingStrenuous · 7 walking days
Altitude2,235–4,890 m
Quotation includesSDF & visa fee
Send Inquiry or call +975 77682156
The route

Where you sleep, and for how long

Paro2 nightsThangthangkacampJangothang2 nightsLingshicampHigh valleycampShoducampBarshongcampThimphu1 night

Overnight stops in order. Read more about each valley on the valleys page.

Day by day

The itinerary

Driving times are realistic for Bhutanese mountain roads. Everything here is adjustable.

Day01
An aircraft on the apron at Paro International Airport

Arrive at Paro

Arrival day Paro

Arrival at about 2,235 metres and a deliberately quiet afternoon. Your guide will check your kit this evening.

The trek starts in two days. Everything between now and then is acclimatisation.

Driving: 15 minutes from the airport Walking: Short walk Overnight: Paro (2,200 m)
Day02
Paro Taktsang with mist crossing the cliff

Taktsang and the upper valley

4–5 hours return Up to 3,120 m

The Taktsang climb, about 900 metres of ascent to roughly 3,120 metres, then back down to sleep at 2,200. Textbook acclimatisation, and the finest building in the country.

In the afternoon, Drukgyel Dzong at the head of the valley — built in 1649, burned in 1951 — which is where the trek road begins tomorrow.

Driving: Short transfers Walking: 4–5 hours return Overnight: Paro (2,200 m)
Day03
Pack horses on the trail beside the Paro Chhu

Trek begins — Sharna Zampa to Thangthangka

Day 1 · 7–8 hours Camp 3,610 m Up the Paro Chhu

A drive past Drukgyel to the road head at Sharna Zampa, around 2,870 metres, where the ponies are loaded and the walking starts.

A long first day following the Paro Chhu upstream through blue pine and then oak, crossing and recrossing the river. The valley narrows steadily. Camp at Thangthangka at about 3,610 metres — and if the cloud lifts in the evening, the first sight of Jomolhari at the head of the valley.

Note. This is the longest day of the trek in hours. The gradient is gentle but it goes on.
Driving: About 1 hour to the road head Walking: 7–8 hours, gradual ascent Overnight: Camp, Thangthangka (3,610 m)
Day04
The snow massif of Jomolhari at the head of the valley

Thangthangka to Jangothang

Day 2 · 5–6 hours Camp 4,080 m Above the treeline

The trees end this morning. The path climbs past an army post and the small settlement of Soe, through yak pasture, with the valley opening as it rises.

Jangothang, at about 4,080 metres, is the base camp and the reason people walk this route: a broad meadow beneath a ruined fortress, with the north face of Jomolhari — 7,326 metres — closing the head of the valley. In good weather the evening light on it goes on for an hour.

Walking: 5–6 hours, steady ascent Overnight: Camp, Jangothang (4,080 m)
Day05
Alpenglow on a Himalayan summit at sunrise

Rest day at Jangothang

Acclimatisation walks 4,080 m Blue sheep

A full day at 4,080 metres, which is not a day off — it is the acclimatisation that makes the passes possible. There are three good options: up towards the Jomolhari base for the closest view of the face, up the side valley towards Tsophu lakes, or a shorter walk to the ridge behind camp.

Blue sheep are often on the slopes above the lakes, and lammergeier and Himalayan griffon work the thermals most afternoons. Nothing is guaranteed; the mountain is reliable, the wildlife is not.

Walking: 3–5 hours, your choice of route Overnight: Camp, Jangothang (4,080 m)
Day06
Trekkers crossing a high snow pass

Over the Nyile La to Lingshi

Day 3 · 6–7 hours Nyile La · 4,870 m Lingshi Dzong

The first pass, and the hardest day so far. A long climb to the Nyile La at about 4,870 metres, with Jomolhari and Jichu Drake behind you and — on a clear day — a view north into the ranges along the Tibetan border.

The descent runs along a high traverse to Lingshi at about 4,010 metres, where a small dzong stands on a bluff above the settlement. Lingshi is one of the remotest inhabited places in Bhutan; supplies come in on horseback.

Note. If the Nyile La is snowbound we return down the Paro Chhu instead. That decision is made on the morning, on the conditions.
Walking: 6–7 hours, one high pass Overnight: Camp, Lingshi (4,010 m)
Day07
An alpine lake below high snow peaks

Over the Yeli La towards Shodu

Day 4 · 7–8 hours Yeli La · 4,890 m

The highest point of the trek. A steady climb to the Yeli La at about 4,890 metres, from which — in clear weather — Jomolhari, Tserim Kang and Masang Gang are all visible at once.

Then a long descent following the Thimphu Chhu's headwaters. This is a big day and the ground underfoot is rough.

Walking: 7–8 hours, one high pass and a long descent Overnight: Camp, high valley (about 4,300 m)
Day08
Forested valley and mountains in Bhutan

Down to Shodu

Day 5 · 5–6 hours Camp 4,100 m Back to the treeline

The descent continues along the river, and the treeline reappears — juniper and rhododendron first, then birch. After four days above the trees this feels like a considerable event.

Camp at Shodu, about 4,100 metres, on a meadow beside the river where there is a small chorten and, usually, nobody else.

Walking: 5–6 hours, descending Overnight: Camp, Shodu (4,100 m)
Day09
Prayer flags against an evening sky

Shodu to Barshong

Day 6 · 5–6 hours Camp 3,710 m

A day of limestone gorges and waterfalls, following the Thimphu Chhu down through increasingly dense forest, with a short climb at the end to the ruins of Barshong Dzong at about 3,710 metres.

The air is noticeably thicker and warmer tonight than it has been all week.

Walking: 5–6 hours, mostly descending Overnight: Camp, Barshong (3,710 m)
Day10
Trekking tents at a camp in the Bhutanese hills

Last walking day, and out to Thimphu

Day 7 · 4–5 hours Thimphu Road head to the city

A final morning through bamboo and rhododendron forest, descending steadily to the road head at Dolam Kencho, where the vehicle is waiting.

An hour or so into Thimphu, a hot shower, and dinner somewhere with a roof. Most people find the transition abrupt in a good way.

Driving: About 1 hour from the road head Walking: 4–5 hours, descending Overnight: Thimphu (2,320 m)
Day11
An aircraft in flight against a clear sky

Departure from Paro

55 km · 1½ hours

The drive down to Paro and your flight home.

Driving: 55 km, about 1½ hours
Altitude

What the route does to your elevation

Altitude range on this journey is 2,235–4,890 m. Sleeping heights matter more than the passes you drive over — see travel questions on altitude.

1,000 m2,000 m3,000 m4,000 m Paro2,235 mSharna Zampa2,870 mThangthangka3,610 mJangothang4,080 mNyile La4,870 mLingshi4,010 mYeli La4,890 mShodu4,100 mBarshong3,710 mThimphu2,320 mDAY 1DAY 2DAY 3DAY 4DAY 5DAY 6DAY 7DAY 8DAY 9DAY 10
The quotation

What is included, and what is not

One figure covers everything on the left, the Sustainable Development Fee and the visa fee included. There are no compulsory extras added later.

Included in the quotation

  • All accommodation in Bhutan on a twin-sharing basis
  • All meals through the itinerary — breakfast, lunch and dinner
  • A licensed English-speaking Bhutanese guide throughout
  • Private vehicle and driver for the full itinerary
  • The Sustainable Development Fee for every night of the trip
  • Bhutan visa processing and the US$40 government visa fee
  • All monument, museum and dzong entry fees on the itinerary
  • Bottled water in the vehicle each day
  • A local SIM card on arrival
  • All camping equipment — tents, dining tent, kitchen, toilet tent
  • A full trek crew: cook, helpers, horsemen and pack animals
  • All trekking permits and national park fees

Not included

  • International flights to and from Paro
  • Travel insurance — strongly recommended, and your own arrangement
  • Single-room supplement, if you would prefer not to share
  • Drinks other than those served with meals
  • Laundry, telephone calls and other personal spending
  • Tips for your guide and driver, which are at your discretion
  • Sleeping bag and personal trekking kit, unless hired in advance
  • Emergency evacuation costs, which your insurance must cover

Important notes

  • Driving times are realistic estimates for Bhutanese mountain roads and assume normal conditions. Roadworks and weather can add to them, particularly during the monsoon.
  • Specific hotels are subject to availability and are confirmed at the time of booking.
  • Mountain views cannot be guaranteed. They depend entirely on the weather on the day.
  • The Sustainable Development Fee is set by the Royal Government of Bhutan and is included in every quotation we send.
  • Travel insurance covering helicopter evacuation and the maximum altitude of the route is a condition of booking on this trek. It is our requirement, not a government one.
  • Camps, walking hours and pass heights follow the standard route. Conditions on the ground change with weather and snow, and your guide may adjust the day.
  • Trek departures depend on the pass being clear. We will tell you honestly if your dates are marginal rather than take the booking and hope.
  • Best walked April to June and September to early November. The high passes hold snow outside those windows and the route is not run in winter.
  • Jomolhari is held sacred and is closed to climbers. Mountaineering has been prohibited in Bhutan since 2003 — this is a trek to the mountain, not up it.
  • Every altitude, camp and walking time below follows the standard route. Confirm them with our trekking team before you finalise anything.
Questions

Before you enquire

How does this compare with a Nepal trek?
The altitudes are comparable to a moderate Everest or Annapurna route, but there are no teahouses — you camp every night, with a full crew — and you will meet almost nobody. On a typical departure you may see two or three other groups in a week. The trade-off is that everything must be carried, and that there is no lodge to retreat into.
What is the acclimatisation plan?
Two nights in Paro at 2,235 metres with the Taktsang climb to about 3,120 metres, then a graded ascent to 3,610 and 4,080 metres, and a full rest day at Jangothang before the first high pass. That rest day is not optional and it is the reason the itinerary is eleven days rather than nine.
What if the weather closes the Nyile La?
Then we walk back out the way we came in, which is a perfectly good trek and costs nothing in scenery. Your guide makes that call on the morning, and it is made on the conditions rather than on the schedule.
Is travel insurance really required?
For this trek, yes — it is a condition of booking with us. It must cover helicopter evacuation and the maximum altitude of the route. It is not a Bhutanese government requirement; it is ours, because an evacuation from Lingshi is slow and expensive.
Do I have to book through a tour operator to get a visa?
No. Travellers may apply directly through Bhutan's official online system, or have a tour operator or hotel apply on their behalf. The visa fee is US$40 per person, one-off and non-refundable. If you book this journey with us we handle the application as part of the arrangements.
What are the hotels like?
We book comfortable, well-run hotels chosen for location and service rather than for a star rating. If you would prefer a particular property, or a higher grade of hotel, tell us in your enquiry and we will quote it. Specific hotels are confirmed at the time of booking and are subject to availability.
Can the itinerary be changed?
Yes. Every departure is private, so the route, the pace and the number of nights in each place are all adjustable. Tell us roughly what you want and we will send a revised plan with the quotation.

More general questions are answered on travel questions.

Under Jomolhari

Send Inquiry & Get a Quotation

We do not publish prices, because a private trip priced honestly depends on your dates, your group and the hotels you want. Tell us those three things and you will have a real figure.

A guide standing among tall prayer-flag poles on a Bhutanese ridge
Talk to us

We answer every enquiry ourselves

No call centre and no automated quote. A person in our Thimphu office reads what you have written and replies with a plan built around it.

Enquiry

Enquire about Under Jomolhari

Private departure on any date you choose. We reply with a written itinerary and a full quotation.

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